How to Build a DIY Golf Simulator (MyGolfSpy.com)
Did you know that according to the National Golf Foundation (NGF) an estimated 6.2 million Americans played golf using a simulator in 2023? That’s a 73% increase from pre-Covid levels.
Moreover, the macro data suggests this trend of increased global participation will continue over the next decade.
As such, there’s a decent chance you’ve pondered adding some sort of “at-home” golf solution on more than one occasion. However, the sheer number of options is mind-numbing and, at first glance, likely appear cost-prohibitive. But, as the great Lee Corso cautions, “Not so fast, my friends ….”
WHERE DO I BELONG?
Let’s consider three buckets of would-be golf simulator consumers.
The first are those for whom budget is not the primary concern. Put differently, this is the golfer who isn’t going to fret whether the final price tag is $50K or $60K or pursuing a commercial option. At the other end of the spectrum is the golfer who might be limited in budget, space, or possibly both.
Then, there’s the ol’ DIYer—the guy or gal who sits somewhere between Bob Vila and Sideshow Bob. Yep, that’s me. I’m not a master craftsman, but I have built a shed (albeit a very basic one). I can change a light fixture, but I’m not going to remodel my kitchen.
I enjoy DIY projects, even if it means the finished product isn’t centerfold gorgeous, if it can save me the cost of a professional installation.
A simple “atta boy” from my buddies or a ”you really did that by yourself? ” from my wife is sufficient. If that sounds like you, let’s take a look at steps (and missteps), materials and key decision points in building your golf simulator.
LET’S GET STARTED
The first step is to determine how much space you have for this project. Most golfers underestimate the room needed to accommodate both right- and left-handed golfers while accounting for an ideal aspect ratio (relationship between the width and height) of the hitting screen.
Ideally, the ceiling height is at least 10 feet. Anything beyond 10’6” is superfluous unless you’re trying to accommodate Andre The Giant (may he rest in peace). Conversely, anything less than 10 feet will limit which clubs you can use. If you don’t have a minimum of nine feet, I’d likely bag the project or be content hitting wedges and punch 6-irons.
In terms of width (here’s where aspect ratio matters), projectors and software tend to optimize with a 16:10 or 16:9 aspect ratio. As such, if you have 10-foot ceilings, you’ll want a width of at least 16 feet.
Then you’re going to want 17 to 20 feet of depth, preferably 25 if the intent is to provide seating or room for others to watch without fear of taking a 3-wood directly to the chops. The screen will sit 12 inches off the back wall (allow room for the screen to flex) and then the strike mat will sit roughly nine feet from the screen. From there, an additional six to seven feet is needed behind the golfer (swing radius, entry/exit, that sort of thing).
You certainly can work with less real estate although you’ll have to make some compromises. In my case, I have plenty of height and depth, but only 12 feet of width. As a result, I placed the hitting mat slightly offset (right of center as you face the screen) and adjusted the aspect ratio to 4:3. It’s not a huge deal because of how current projectors can correct for this but, again, an additional couple of feet on either side would eliminate any need for image manipulation.
FRAME
I used 1 ½” slotted angle iron from Home Depot to build the frame. Depending on what’s behind the angle iron, you’ll need wood screws and washers (wall anchors if you’re going into drywall) to affix the angle iron to the wall/ceiling.
If you know the exact length for each piece, the hardware store might be able to cut it to length for you. Otherwise, grab an angle iron saw or electric cut-off tool with a thin blade for cutting metal so that you can adjust each piece as needed during installation.
If you have someone who owes you a favor, an extra set of hands to hold the angle iron in place while you get the first couple of anchors in is a bonus. If not, the vertical pieces on each wall aren’t too difficult to manage. The ceiling pieces are, however, another story. My suggestion is to cut the total length in half and install each piece individually. Managing a six-foot piece of angle iron is arduous but not impossible. As a bonus, your upper and anterior deltoids will serve as a reminder of your accomplishment for at least the next three days.
Shoot for one screw (or wall anchor) every 12 to 18 inches. If you’re going directly into a stud, every 24 inches is fine but be careful not to stress the drywall by placing too many screws too close to one another.
It’s unlikely many of you will run into my wall-curb conundrum but, if so, here’s the fix. Because my garage has a concrete lip on the bottom, I needed to create a vertical wall by bracketing two 2x4s from the top of the concrete to the ceiling. It should be fairly obvious but make any needed modifications to your space before installing the frame.
SCREEN
It would be easy to overlook the screen and assume this is an opportunity to save a couple of bucks. I’d caution against that line of thinking. A high-quality screen is going to last longer, absorb sound better and project a higher quality image. The SIGPRO Premium screen is where you should start (and likely end) your search. Another option is the SIGPRO Preferred. Either way, the screen can be ordered in any size to fit your space. From there, it’s microwave dinner easy to install. Simply line up each grommet on the perimeter of the screen with a slot on the angle iron. Then loop a bungee ball cord through, making sure the ball ends up sitting behind the screen. This will become important when you install the carpet trim.
FLOORING
It’s not a necessity but the SIGPRO Premium flooring elevates any simulator space and gives it a decidedly custom feel. That’s the upside. The downside is that it’s pretty pricey. As an alternative, consider a SIGPRO Super Softy hitting mat.
If you decide to go the premium flooring route, grab a rubber hammer and get ready to sweat. Beyond that, a foam pad or extra set of tiling knee pads will help you avoid unnecessary discomfort. If you were born before 1984, you know what I’m talking about. If you’re under 30 years old, you’re probably not going to listen anyhow. (Your time is coming. Just wait.)
The flooring is shipped as individual pieces which fit together like a large jigsaw puzzle. My advice is to lay out one row at a time, using the rubber hammer to pound each piece together, working from one edge to the other. Once the row is complete, start hammering that row into the existing row. Keep going until it’s complete.
There isn’t a real science or technique to this. The only saving grace is that each piece doesn’t need to sit perfectly flush with the adjacent piece. In this case, “close enough” suffices.
When you lay the laser-cut turf on top of the flooring, place some heavier objects (books, weights or even small children work) along the perimeter for several hours. Once flat, use double-sided tape along the perimeter and around the hitting mat to prevent the turf from sliding.
TRIM
Velcro is your friend. SIGPRO screens come with a strip of Velcro built into the screen border. Matching black carpet in various widths adheres, well, like you’d expect it to. The chief benefit is a clean, finished aesthetic that hides slight missteps or unsightly blemishes.
TECH
Launch monitors are the engine that drives the golf simulator machine. Camera-based systems tend to offer better accuracy (particularly indoors). Also, radar-based units (e.g., Trackman) require more depth to generate accurate measurements. For this reason, I suggest starting your search with Foresight, Garmin, or Bushnell and finding a product with the features you need at a comfortable price point.
Regardless, each launch monitor unit needs a computer to run the simulation software and connect to your projector. The software will primarily determine how much computing horsepower you need. I’m no card-carrying member of the Geek Squad but a safe bet is to focus on the processor (latest-generation Intel Core i7), RAM (16 GB is recommended) and video card (NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4050) as the key components.
Regarding the projector, the first decision point is resolution. A 4K projector (likely more expensive) is the better option if your setup will double as a home theater or you have a keen interest in future-proofing your tech once all video migrates to a higher resolution. A standard high-definition (1920×1200) projector is sufficient for most applications. I decided on the Panasonic VMZ51U because it offers 5,200 lumens (great for spaces with natural light) and a lens shift function that allows you to project from a wide range of distances and orientations without distorting the image. (Quick note: If you see language promoting horizontal/vertical and/or corner/keystone correction, that tells you the projector has the functionality to adjust the image shape for most any oddball projection issues.)
Projector installation is straightforward. Assuming the ceiling height is relatively uniform, mounting hardware attaches to the ceiling and the top of the projector. The extension arm allows you to hang the projector at the correct height. To determine this, I wired the projector to the computer and placed the projector on top of an eight-foot stepladder which I slid around to approximate the final install location.
** Electrical: Depending on your situation, it might be wise to have a professional electrician install additional outlets (one in the ceiling for the projector and one for your launch monitor and computer, respectively). Ideally, you should figure out where you’re going to place the launch monitor and computer before beginning any electrical work.
CURTAINS/CEILING PANELS
The retractable curtains are simple to install and primarily cosmetic although I do have a single window in my garage I wanted to cover up. The curtain tracks can be mounted directly into the ceiling. Or, if you want to get super-fancy, tack a 2×4 into the ceiling and then attach the curtain tracks to the 2×4. Paint the 2×4 black and then hang a small strip of carpet off the 2×4 to cover the tracks.
Inevitably, someone will hit a pop-up (or attempt a super-flop) and put a nice golf-ball-sized hole in your ceiling. To prevent this, you can either install individual ceiling tiles (major pain in the ass but they look fantastic) or foam/fabric baffling. I used Liquid Nails and Velcro to adhere each tile to the ceiling. Yep, I took the more arduous route but because I didn’t want to stand on a ladder with my arms extended waiting for the Liquid Nails to cure, I taped several towels to a piece of PVC pipe which I wedged into a ladder to do the holding for me. Then, every hour or so, I repeated the process until it was complete. Installation is akin to doing 25 consecutive loads of laundry: five minutes of work, followed by 45 minutes of waiting … ad nauseam.
IF YOU BUILD IT …
Golf simulators are to today’s market what hot tubs were to the 1980s and 1990s—all the rage. Numerous options give consumers plenty of choices and it seems most of my golfing buddies either have one or are considering some sort of at-home golf solution.
Beyond the nuts and bolts of the process, here are three tips that you might want to consider:
* Don’t let perfection become the enemy of progress. A DIY golf simulator space isn’t going to look the same as a professionally installed one—and that’s OK. As it’s entirely functional and meets your needs, that’s ultimately what matters.
* Ask for help. Many “DIYers” are independent types who enjoy working alone, tackling tasks and finding solutions to problems. That’s great. However, an extra set of hands will come in handy, particularly when building the frame and installing the screen.
* Give yourself plenty of time. Assuming you have all the materials on hand, you could knock this out over a long weekend. My suggestion is to break the project down into three parts:
1) Framing/Screen/Trim
2) Flooring
3) Tech Install (Projector, Launch Monitor, Computer/Software installation and calibration)
With that, I’m sure you have plenty of questions … so fire away!
LIST OF PRODUCTS/MATERIALS:
SIGPRO Premium or SIGPRO Preferred Screen
SIGPRO Premium flooring
Panasonic VMZ51U Projector
Carpet/Panel Gap Material
Gaming PC
SIGPRO Wall/Ceiling Padding
The post How to Build a DIY Golf Simulator appeared first on MyGolfSpy.
Pokračovat ve čtení...
Did you know that according to the National Golf Foundation (NGF) an estimated 6.2 million Americans played golf using a simulator in 2023? That’s a 73% increase from pre-Covid levels.
Moreover, the macro data suggests this trend of increased global participation will continue over the next decade.
As such, there’s a decent chance you’ve pondered adding some sort of “at-home” golf solution on more than one occasion. However, the sheer number of options is mind-numbing and, at first glance, likely appear cost-prohibitive. But, as the great Lee Corso cautions, “Not so fast, my friends ….”
WHERE DO I BELONG?
Let’s consider three buckets of would-be golf simulator consumers.
The first are those for whom budget is not the primary concern. Put differently, this is the golfer who isn’t going to fret whether the final price tag is $50K or $60K or pursuing a commercial option. At the other end of the spectrum is the golfer who might be limited in budget, space, or possibly both.
Then, there’s the ol’ DIYer—the guy or gal who sits somewhere between Bob Vila and Sideshow Bob. Yep, that’s me. I’m not a master craftsman, but I have built a shed (albeit a very basic one). I can change a light fixture, but I’m not going to remodel my kitchen.
I enjoy DIY projects, even if it means the finished product isn’t centerfold gorgeous, if it can save me the cost of a professional installation.
A simple “atta boy” from my buddies or a ”you really did that by yourself? ” from my wife is sufficient. If that sounds like you, let’s take a look at steps (and missteps), materials and key decision points in building your golf simulator.
LET’S GET STARTED
The first step is to determine how much space you have for this project. Most golfers underestimate the room needed to accommodate both right- and left-handed golfers while accounting for an ideal aspect ratio (relationship between the width and height) of the hitting screen.
Ideally, the ceiling height is at least 10 feet. Anything beyond 10’6” is superfluous unless you’re trying to accommodate Andre The Giant (may he rest in peace). Conversely, anything less than 10 feet will limit which clubs you can use. If you don’t have a minimum of nine feet, I’d likely bag the project or be content hitting wedges and punch 6-irons.
In terms of width (here’s where aspect ratio matters), projectors and software tend to optimize with a 16:10 or 16:9 aspect ratio. As such, if you have 10-foot ceilings, you’ll want a width of at least 16 feet.
Then you’re going to want 17 to 20 feet of depth, preferably 25 if the intent is to provide seating or room for others to watch without fear of taking a 3-wood directly to the chops. The screen will sit 12 inches off the back wall (allow room for the screen to flex) and then the strike mat will sit roughly nine feet from the screen. From there, an additional six to seven feet is needed behind the golfer (swing radius, entry/exit, that sort of thing).
You certainly can work with less real estate although you’ll have to make some compromises. In my case, I have plenty of height and depth, but only 12 feet of width. As a result, I placed the hitting mat slightly offset (right of center as you face the screen) and adjusted the aspect ratio to 4:3. It’s not a huge deal because of how current projectors can correct for this but, again, an additional couple of feet on either side would eliminate any need for image manipulation.
FRAME
I used 1 ½” slotted angle iron from Home Depot to build the frame. Depending on what’s behind the angle iron, you’ll need wood screws and washers (wall anchors if you’re going into drywall) to affix the angle iron to the wall/ceiling.
If you know the exact length for each piece, the hardware store might be able to cut it to length for you. Otherwise, grab an angle iron saw or electric cut-off tool with a thin blade for cutting metal so that you can adjust each piece as needed during installation.
If you have someone who owes you a favor, an extra set of hands to hold the angle iron in place while you get the first couple of anchors in is a bonus. If not, the vertical pieces on each wall aren’t too difficult to manage. The ceiling pieces are, however, another story. My suggestion is to cut the total length in half and install each piece individually. Managing a six-foot piece of angle iron is arduous but not impossible. As a bonus, your upper and anterior deltoids will serve as a reminder of your accomplishment for at least the next three days.
Shoot for one screw (or wall anchor) every 12 to 18 inches. If you’re going directly into a stud, every 24 inches is fine but be careful not to stress the drywall by placing too many screws too close to one another.
It’s unlikely many of you will run into my wall-curb conundrum but, if so, here’s the fix. Because my garage has a concrete lip on the bottom, I needed to create a vertical wall by bracketing two 2x4s from the top of the concrete to the ceiling. It should be fairly obvious but make any needed modifications to your space before installing the frame.
SCREEN
It would be easy to overlook the screen and assume this is an opportunity to save a couple of bucks. I’d caution against that line of thinking. A high-quality screen is going to last longer, absorb sound better and project a higher quality image. The SIGPRO Premium screen is where you should start (and likely end) your search. Another option is the SIGPRO Preferred. Either way, the screen can be ordered in any size to fit your space. From there, it’s microwave dinner easy to install. Simply line up each grommet on the perimeter of the screen with a slot on the angle iron. Then loop a bungee ball cord through, making sure the ball ends up sitting behind the screen. This will become important when you install the carpet trim.
FLOORING
It’s not a necessity but the SIGPRO Premium flooring elevates any simulator space and gives it a decidedly custom feel. That’s the upside. The downside is that it’s pretty pricey. As an alternative, consider a SIGPRO Super Softy hitting mat.
If you decide to go the premium flooring route, grab a rubber hammer and get ready to sweat. Beyond that, a foam pad or extra set of tiling knee pads will help you avoid unnecessary discomfort. If you were born before 1984, you know what I’m talking about. If you’re under 30 years old, you’re probably not going to listen anyhow. (Your time is coming. Just wait.)
The flooring is shipped as individual pieces which fit together like a large jigsaw puzzle. My advice is to lay out one row at a time, using the rubber hammer to pound each piece together, working from one edge to the other. Once the row is complete, start hammering that row into the existing row. Keep going until it’s complete.
There isn’t a real science or technique to this. The only saving grace is that each piece doesn’t need to sit perfectly flush with the adjacent piece. In this case, “close enough” suffices.
When you lay the laser-cut turf on top of the flooring, place some heavier objects (books, weights or even small children work) along the perimeter for several hours. Once flat, use double-sided tape along the perimeter and around the hitting mat to prevent the turf from sliding.
TRIM
Velcro is your friend. SIGPRO screens come with a strip of Velcro built into the screen border. Matching black carpet in various widths adheres, well, like you’d expect it to. The chief benefit is a clean, finished aesthetic that hides slight missteps or unsightly blemishes.
TECH
Launch monitors are the engine that drives the golf simulator machine. Camera-based systems tend to offer better accuracy (particularly indoors). Also, radar-based units (e.g., Trackman) require more depth to generate accurate measurements. For this reason, I suggest starting your search with Foresight, Garmin, or Bushnell and finding a product with the features you need at a comfortable price point.
Regardless, each launch monitor unit needs a computer to run the simulation software and connect to your projector. The software will primarily determine how much computing horsepower you need. I’m no card-carrying member of the Geek Squad but a safe bet is to focus on the processor (latest-generation Intel Core i7), RAM (16 GB is recommended) and video card (NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4050) as the key components.
Regarding the projector, the first decision point is resolution. A 4K projector (likely more expensive) is the better option if your setup will double as a home theater or you have a keen interest in future-proofing your tech once all video migrates to a higher resolution. A standard high-definition (1920×1200) projector is sufficient for most applications. I decided on the Panasonic VMZ51U because it offers 5,200 lumens (great for spaces with natural light) and a lens shift function that allows you to project from a wide range of distances and orientations without distorting the image. (Quick note: If you see language promoting horizontal/vertical and/or corner/keystone correction, that tells you the projector has the functionality to adjust the image shape for most any oddball projection issues.)
Projector installation is straightforward. Assuming the ceiling height is relatively uniform, mounting hardware attaches to the ceiling and the top of the projector. The extension arm allows you to hang the projector at the correct height. To determine this, I wired the projector to the computer and placed the projector on top of an eight-foot stepladder which I slid around to approximate the final install location.
** Electrical: Depending on your situation, it might be wise to have a professional electrician install additional outlets (one in the ceiling for the projector and one for your launch monitor and computer, respectively). Ideally, you should figure out where you’re going to place the launch monitor and computer before beginning any electrical work.
CURTAINS/CEILING PANELS
The retractable curtains are simple to install and primarily cosmetic although I do have a single window in my garage I wanted to cover up. The curtain tracks can be mounted directly into the ceiling. Or, if you want to get super-fancy, tack a 2×4 into the ceiling and then attach the curtain tracks to the 2×4. Paint the 2×4 black and then hang a small strip of carpet off the 2×4 to cover the tracks.
Inevitably, someone will hit a pop-up (or attempt a super-flop) and put a nice golf-ball-sized hole in your ceiling. To prevent this, you can either install individual ceiling tiles (major pain in the ass but they look fantastic) or foam/fabric baffling. I used Liquid Nails and Velcro to adhere each tile to the ceiling. Yep, I took the more arduous route but because I didn’t want to stand on a ladder with my arms extended waiting for the Liquid Nails to cure, I taped several towels to a piece of PVC pipe which I wedged into a ladder to do the holding for me. Then, every hour or so, I repeated the process until it was complete. Installation is akin to doing 25 consecutive loads of laundry: five minutes of work, followed by 45 minutes of waiting … ad nauseam.
IF YOU BUILD IT …
Golf simulators are to today’s market what hot tubs were to the 1980s and 1990s—all the rage. Numerous options give consumers plenty of choices and it seems most of my golfing buddies either have one or are considering some sort of at-home golf solution.
Beyond the nuts and bolts of the process, here are three tips that you might want to consider:
* Don’t let perfection become the enemy of progress. A DIY golf simulator space isn’t going to look the same as a professionally installed one—and that’s OK. As it’s entirely functional and meets your needs, that’s ultimately what matters.
* Ask for help. Many “DIYers” are independent types who enjoy working alone, tackling tasks and finding solutions to problems. That’s great. However, an extra set of hands will come in handy, particularly when building the frame and installing the screen.
* Give yourself plenty of time. Assuming you have all the materials on hand, you could knock this out over a long weekend. My suggestion is to break the project down into three parts:
1) Framing/Screen/Trim
2) Flooring
3) Tech Install (Projector, Launch Monitor, Computer/Software installation and calibration)
With that, I’m sure you have plenty of questions … so fire away!
LIST OF PRODUCTS/MATERIALS:
SIGPRO Premium or SIGPRO Preferred Screen
SIGPRO Premium flooring
Panasonic VMZ51U Projector
Carpet/Panel Gap Material
Gaming PC
SIGPRO Wall/Ceiling Padding
The post How to Build a DIY Golf Simulator appeared first on MyGolfSpy.
Pokračovat ve čtení...
